Turn Back the Clock
All sorts of products promise to trim away years-without using a knife
Deep wrinkles and extensive sun-damage are laser territory, which has traditionally meant removing the top layers of skin to reveal the fresh skin underneath. These "ablative" lasers are effective but require several days for the skin to heal. Now, there is a new generation of nonablative lasers that work beneath the surface of the skin, using short pulses of light to reduce wrinkles and sagging. They are supposed to stimulate collagen production, and treatment can be completed in an hour, thus the "lunch-hour lift." Anyone considering a new laser treatment should find out how long the laser has been in use and ask to see some results. "A lot of these lasers are being marketed very aggressively before there's any real science to support their efficacy or their safety is established," says Schaffran.
One of the fastest-growing new deep-skin treatments is Thermage, which uses a radio frequency to heat the inner layer of the skin, usually around the jaw line. The heat causes the collagen to contract and tighten the skin from underneath. The treatment also stimulates collagen growth. Although the effects are subtle, Thermage may require only one treatment that costs up to $2,000.
Buyer beware. By their very nature, noninvasive procedures are less risky than surgery. But there are still some serious precautions to take, starting with choosing a doctor. You don't need a medical degree to do most injections, and many plastic surgeons have shifted that work to nurses, so that they can better spend their time giving consults on $15,000 face-lifts. But there should be a physician nearby in case you have an allergic reaction or some other problem.
Checking credentials is a no-brainer, but word of mouth and your own eyes are also valuable resources. Cosmetic work is subjective. If you like the way someone looks, that matters. "In Los Angeles, cosmetic work is a rite of passage, and women like that "done" look," says Mandell-Brown, the Cincinnati plastic surgeon. "Here, women prefer more subtle changes, and they don't talk about it."
If you already feel comfortable in your own skin and want to stay there, there is still one product you shouldn't be without. "People come in here and they want all these procedures, and they think I have a magic wand," says Schaffran. "Then they tell me they don't use sunscreen. It's still the most effective antiaging remedy we have."
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